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Thread: Just some nice pics of My Ethno pieces

  1. #1

    Just some nice pics of My Ethno pieces

    I just thought I would post some pics this morning,
    I love the way the Moro blade picture has an almost snakeskin look when photographed at a certain angle

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Kernersville, NC, USA
    That's a beautiful kris. I'd love to see it polished and etched. It's probably got a beautiful pattern. I'll bet it's got a twist pattern in the center. I have one like that, but I'll bet yours is a lot more active than mine.


    Last edited by Steve Ferguson; 11-23-2007 at 10:25 AM.

  3. #3
    Thanks Steve
    I want to do a polish and etch on this one but I am not sure how.
    I have read many different suggestions ...but I am afraid I might mess it up,so I have not chanced it

    Yours is quite beautiful as well,It is my hope that others would post pics of theirs as well

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Kernersville, NC, USA
    AW, here's how I do it. I've probably etched 20-30 knives and swords. Your mileage may vary.

    If the blade is highly polished, I've found it's good to "open the pores" of the metal by sanding with some very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper, at least 1000 grit. Use Windex, or any brand window cleaner with ammonia to lubricate the sandpaper, and keep it from loading up. For goodness sake, go slow and be careful. I've cut myself on several occaisions.

    If you need to remove fine scratches, rust, or reduce pitting, you can start at 400 grit, then go to 600,1000, or higher.

    1. Use acetone or denatured alcohol to degrease the blade. Both are flammable, so use good ventilation and follow the safety instructions on the can.
    2. Mix one part Ferric Chloride, available in the US from Radio Shack as Printed circuit board etchant, with 3 or 4 parts distilled water.
    3. Using rubber gloves saturate a rag or paper towel with the solution and rub it onto the blade. Put it on with a fully saturated rag, and wipe it on evenly. Do one side then the other, doing your best to cover the full side of the blade in one pass. Don’t let the solution run down into the grip. I use a plastic trough that is used to wet wallpaper that I bought at the local home improvements store to catch the drips.
    4. When satisfied with the pattern, rinse with cold water.
    5. Rub the blade with a rag or paper towel saturated with vinegar. I’ve read that this helps to stop the ferric chloride reaction.
    6. Rinse with cold water.
    7. Neutralize the acid by thoroughly rubbing the blade with ammonia, or window cleaner containing ammonia.
    8. Rinse with cold water.
    9 Dry the blade thoroughly, and oil it well with mineral oil, or whatever you currently use to prevent rust.

  5. #5
    Thanks Steve ,I will try soon as I get the stuff

  6. #6
    Well Steve I got another one today to try to etch and stain
    I will post pics of the results when I get brave enough to do it
    Here is the new one

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Kernersville, NC, USA
    Very nice! Wonder what the pommel material is? Ivory, some type of tooth? Recent re-wrap of the hilt. Separate gangya, often means pre 1930. Sweet blade!


  8. #8
    I was told at another forum that this is " Sea Ivory "
    I am still awaiting definition of that,I think maybe Walrus tusk ot Whale tooth perhaps but I am not sure

  9. #9
    I am soooooo afraid I am doing this wrong but here is the results of my first attempt
    I love the little gold on the tip of the one with the fuller and how the gold is in the fuller and the gold dot in the other

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Kernersville, NC, USA
    Looks like you did fine. Just be sure the etchant has been neutraized with plenty of ammonia, or ammonia based window cleaner. Then keep them oiled.

    Personally, I don't mind the very dark hardened edges. Some collectors don't like the real dark look. If it's too dark for you, you can lightly use some metal polish to lighten up the darkest areas.

    Good job, and fine pieces. It would be great to see some closeups of the blades under natural lighting. A cloudy day makes a great time for photographs outside.


  11. #11
    A good acid neutralizer is TSP, it's available at your local home improvement store, an alternative is plain baking soda. Just add water to make a paste/slurry. I usually take a good amount and rub it into the blade making sure I get it in all the grooves, holes, nooks and crannies. Let it sit for a few minutes and rinse off with water dry well and oil.

    It seems like your blade (post etching), looks rusty, it could be poor lighting. It's a good idea to take a very fine steel wool saturate it with oil and hit the rusty looking areas. Sometimes I polish and etch my blades several times to desired appearance.

    The gold dot you talk about near the tip of the blade is copper. You can tell by how your etchant is eating it. I can see it running down the blade. It's advisable to paint the copper parts with clear nail polish before using Ferric chloride.

    Here is a partial photo of a blade that I had etched a while back. Some people like their blades etched dark some light.

    BTW nice collection.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by a.s.kino; 11-29-2007 at 05:34 AM. Reason: -

  12. #12
    Thanks Kino
    Here are some pics outdoors without flash
    You can see how the copper is really running down from the Asang or Baca clamps

  13. #13
    Hello Alan,

    Really nice pieces!

    I also seem to spot rust along the basal half of your new aquisition - try to clean/reetch it. (Vinegar is definitely safer!)

    I'd also give that Kalis Seko another (third, etc.) try! Make sure to completely remove that bleeded copper during the cleaning (change the vinegar as needed) to avoid it changing the color of the steel.

  14. #14
    Thanks Kai
    I intend to re do these as I am not happy with the results,I want the pattern to show but I want it to look a bit more subtle and not so harsh as the chemical etching has seemed to be
    Thanks again

  15. #15
    Hello Alan,

    the vinegar alone may work for you. Try diluted vinegar (approx. 2% acetic acid works fine) as a replacement for the coconut vinegar (link). Follow up with heating the blade and regular strength vinegar (I'm using about 6% technical grade acetic acid to avoid discoloration from accompagnying organic substances in edible vinegar) and repeatedly brush it on followed by reheating. Go for a bit more contrast/staining - you can always gently use fine (colorless) polishing compound to remove a shade or two after oiling. Wipe down the blade with an generously oiled cloth and reheat. Reapply oil with another (vinegar-free) cloth as needed and keep the blade heated until no more vinegar odor is noticeable for a few minutes. Be careful not to heat too much since temps around boiling may already soften the resin attaching the hilt (hold the blade upright and use gloves to protect the hilt from excessive heat).

    As already suggested, it wouldn't hurt to cover silver and, especially, copper fittings with some protection. Make sure that the blade is clean and oil-free though! (You could do this before or after the cleaning step.)
    Last edited by Kai W.; 12-03-2007 at 04:27 PM.

  16. #16
    Thanks again Kai
    Here is the current state after re cleaning and then using only vinager


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