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Thread: Dynasty Forge Improved

  1. #1

    Dynasty Forge Improved

    Hello everyone. I have just received my Dynasty Forge Tri-Folded back from Aaron Justice. He re-wraped the Tsuka and polished the blade using stones. Caution there are a lot of pics so I hope you don't mind. There also is a Oni Forge Medium Katana in the pictures for comparison. I know the Oni isn't one for a flash Hamon but here it is anyway. Now onto the pics.

    Two side by side Oni on the Bottom

    And the tip

    Side by side under lights with a camera flash

  2. #2

    Some more

    Here are more
    another angle

    The dynasty up close with a new polish. IMO its looks 100% better
    Oni for Comparison
    outdoors

  3. #3

    Pictures


    Another outdoor picture of the Dynasty with polish job by Aaron Justice.


    Here are two of my favorites. Aaron does a great Job


    These were indoors no flash

  4. #4
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    Wow. That looks amazing. How much was it for the polish? I am thinking of having my Ronin bushi done if it's affordable. The only thing I don't really care for are the vertical scratches on yokote. From the pictures it looks cosmetic yokote. I wonder if it's possible to make a cosmetic yokote that looks more natural.
    Last edited by Mikey G; 01-30-2008 at 05:43 PM.

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    Why are there still vertical scratches on the kissaki surface? I mean, not that I could have done any better in a million years... but just wondering.... I thought finger-stones are supposed to get rid of those scratches?
    REAL Star Wars fans HATE Star Wars (and Lucas)... but LOVE the idea.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey G View Post
    Wow. That looks amazing. How much was it for the polish? I am thinking of having my Ronin bushi done if it's affordable. The only thing I don't really care for are the vertical scratches on yokote. From the pictures it looks cosmetic yokote. I wonder if it's possible to make a cosmetic yokote that looks more natural.
    Actually the yokote is strongly geometric. The problem here was the level of the grind. The kissaki is essentially in the lowest grind level. I went at it with 400 grit paper to reduce it as much as I could, but it would require a very major removal of steel. That's not my thing, I let people know I will repolish, fix scratches and improve the hamon, but sharpening or reshaping is not my thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Benjamin P. View Post
    Why are there still vertical scratches on the kissaki surface? I mean, not that I could have done any better in a million years... but just wondering.... I thought finger-stones are supposed to get rid of those scratches?

    It was essentially too much for fingerstones. Fingerstones are incredibly smooth, akin to the highest level grit of stone. It essentially cannot remove any steel, it just becomes pure slurry in the process.
    Every time I put on a suit for a wedding or other event, I feel like I'm wearing optimal clothing for an epic fight scene...

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  7. #7

    Before Aaron had it

    Heres a few pics of the same Dynasty forge Before Aaron worked it over. A big difference on my opinion.



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    I dislike the very strong appearance of hada-pattern, was it too deeply etched (which would have required going back to at least chu-nagura) or were the fingerstones too rough for this steel?

    It looks a bit odd, to have a fingerpolished ji and hamon, but not having a burnished bo-hi and an unfinished kissaki.. But that's just me. Kinda like putting striped wheels with custom rims on a budget car (you know we had a car-analogy coming.. )

    Anyway, on the part worked on, work well done.
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    Blades made from steels that contrast each other, depending on the folding of course, will have a bold hada to a certain degree, and there really isn't much you can do about it. With most of these swords the steels are chosen specifically for this reason, so it doesn't necessarily mean that it was over etched or finished wrong.
    Last edited by Chris Osborne; 01-31-2008 at 02:37 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Osborne View Post
    Blades made from steels that contrast each other, depending on the folding of course, will have a bold hada to a certain degree, and there really isn't much you can do about it. With most of these swords the steels are chosen specifically for this reason, so it doesn't necessarily mean that it was over etched or finished wrong.
    Ah, thanks, didn't know that. You mean the steels are selected so that you can see hada without etching the blades? Interesting.. Any idea how the hada could be toned down if the blade is repolished like this one?
    Certified nerd; if you need an Excel sheet or an AutoCAD drawing done, just drop me a PM!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Timo Qvintus View Post
    Ah, thanks, didn't know that. You mean the steels are selected so that you can see hada without etching the blades? Interesting.. Any idea how the hada could be toned down if the blade is repolished like this one?
    It would have to be taken back to at least kaisei-do and properly polished out from there, matched stones, matched nugui etc...

    Even so, if the steels are high contrast lower layer count the "hada" is still going to be bold at best it would be an o-hada type situation.

    -Karl
    Last edited by Karl J; 01-31-2008 at 08:39 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timo Qvintus View Post
    I dislike the very strong appearance of hada-pattern, was it too deeply etched (which would have required going back to at least chu-nagura) or were the fingerstones too rough for this steel?

    It looks a bit odd, to have a fingerpolished ji and hamon, but not having a burnished bo-hi and an unfinished kissaki.. But that's just me. Kinda like putting striped wheels with custom rims on a budget car (you know we had a car-analogy coming.. )

    Anyway, on the part worked on, work well done.

    Actually you're describing why I don't happen to like flash pictures that much, though Joe does a pretty good job. Flash pictures tend to highlight the hamon, but also the hada. This is the exact same blade, but in natural sunlight. Granted, it wasn't finished, but I didn't do any etching or jizuya polish after this point.




    The brighter layers of hada are more than likely the higher content carbon steel, since DF forges 1095, 1080, and 1060 together. The areas of hada which appear whitish in the flash pictures looks almost blackish in these. But also look at the difference of the kissaki pictures when taken directly straight on as opposed to a sideways flash. Again, it's not perfect, but the grind of the kissaski was low, you could drag your fingernail across the kissaski and possibly have it stop on one of the grinds. However, the yokote is strongly geometric, and I particularly like the fumbari on in.
    Every time I put on a suit for a wedding or other event, I feel like I'm wearing optimal clothing for an epic fight scene...

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    I don't see much fumbari...
    REAL Star Wars fans HATE Star Wars (and Lucas)... but LOVE the idea.

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    There are certain techniques that can help tone down a bold hada, but you have to remember that with some of these blades a bold hada is what they were trying to create. From what I've seen, the newer chinahagane blades may be an exception, as they appear to have a more refined and subtle hada, which again, is what they were after. The amount of folds can make a huge difference here as well.....more layers, finer hada. I've found that pictures can have a dramatic effect on how the hada looks. The last folded blade I polished looks far more subtle in person than in the pics, the flash seems to make the contrast look over the top.


    Edit: I see Aaron just addressed the flash photography problem.
    Last edited by Chris Osborne; 01-31-2008 at 11:15 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benjamin P. View Post
    I don't see much fumbari...
    Sorry, fumbari wasn't what I was shooting for... I can't remember what it was I was trying to convey...

    I just like the kissaki shape overall. When the nagasa transitions into the kissaki, there's a little drop, not a round transition like most production katana, but a squared angle, like here.

    http://www.legacyswords.com/antique/...t/kissaki1.jpg
    Every time I put on a suit for a wedding or other event, I feel like I'm wearing optimal clothing for an epic fight scene...

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    Fukura, perhaps?

    I like the polish on it. The kissaki may not be as nice, but as you pointed out Aaron, it would take a "reshape" level polish.

    You're a lucky guy to own this blade Joe.
    Last edited by Angelo Silva; 01-31-2008 at 02:50 PM.
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  17. #17
    I love the Hada- Pattern in the blade so I guess thats all that matters since I own it. And yes it does show more with Flash photography. When looked at with the naked eye you wont see it that much except under a strong light and tilted blade. With out light the blade has a black look to it except for the Hamon. That was what I was hoping for and received.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angelo Silva View Post
    Fukura, perheaps?

    I like the polish on it. The kissaki may not be as nice, but as you pointed out Aaron, it would take a "reshape" level polish.

    You're a lucky guy to own this blade Joe.

    Yes, fukura, that's it. Not knowing Japanese, all their words look alike (kidding...).
    Every time I put on a suit for a wedding or other event, I feel like I'm wearing optimal clothing for an epic fight scene...

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    There's just to many words for foreigners like us to memorize...
    Last edited by Angelo Silva; 01-31-2008 at 12:40 PM.
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    Thanks for clearing that up! Guess this is why they say to study swords in person, not from pictures..
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timo Qvintus View Post
    Thanks for clearing that up! Guess this is why they say to study swords in person, not from pictures..
    No harm Timo. Any criticism is welcome.
    Every time I put on a suit for a wedding or other event, I feel like I'm wearing optimal clothing for an epic fight scene...

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  22. #22
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    Looking at the before and after pictures I think that the blade looks much improved, I think Aaron did exactly what he advertises and was contracted to do.

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    Peeve Alert

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Justice View Post
    When the nagasa transitions into the kissaki . . .
    Just like your height is in no way part of your body, nagasa, length, is not part of a sword (or anything else). It's one of the misuses that bothers me for some reason. I think the word you're looking for is tōshin (刀身), the body of the sword, though I'd think that generally includes the kissaki as well.

  24. #24
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    I for one am pleased to learn a new term : toshin - Body of the blade , I dont think Aarons at fault for not knowing these terms -

    we use so many of them on SFI it can be confusing - but after all
    this is an educational forum .
    " Put on the full armor of God so that you can take your stand against the devil's schemes. For our struggle is not against flesh and blood, but against principalities, against the authorities, against the powers of this dark world and against the spiritual forces of evil in the heavenly realms."



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    If I could do half what Aaron can do with customizing (or modifying) and polishing swords and knew close to as many terms, I'd be one very happy dude....

    Back to the topic of the thread, I think overall, this is the nicest Dynasty Forge blade I've seen yet!!!

    Three questions:

    1) Does "strongly geometric" mean that there is an angle change at the yokote? I know, I know... it's not necessarily a litmus test for "correct" kissaki... and it depends on other factors about the blade shape, but just wondering if this is something we can expect from their products in the future.

    2) How are the machi and fit to the habaki? Are the machi parallel with the ha-machi inside the habaki? Or does the ha-machi kind of just rest on top of the habaki?

    3) In terms of shape and geometry, what Paul Chen/Hanwei model are Dynasty blades closest to?

    Thanks!!
    REAL Star Wars fans HATE Star Wars (and Lucas)... but LOVE the idea.

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