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Thread: Replacement P1796 LC grip

  1. #76
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    Jan 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Critchley View Post
    Really excellent job Ian

    David
    That's very kind of you David.
    Ian

  2. #77
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    Jan 2007
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    I just thought I would show my latest grip replacement project as many members would have seen the sword on the classified section a few months ago.
    The original grip was quite crude and too large.
    I believe the markings to be that of the 2nd Portuguese cavalry regiment.
    I have yet to replace the rivet through the 'ears' into the tang.
    The photos are before and after.

    Ian
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  3. #78
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    Oct 2007
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    Kingston area, Ontario Canada
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    Align holes

    I have found what works for me when aligning existing holes to drill.
    Drill about half way from each side, should meet well enough to run the pin through. This prevents enlarging the hole or creating a second beside it.
    Also ensures the pin will be snug as you may not want to do too much peening. I'm shure you already know this, just putting it out there for future or beginning restorers.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will Mathieson View Post
    I have found what works for me when aligning existing holes to drill.
    Drill about half way from each side, should meet well enough to run the pin through. This prevents enlarging the hole or creating a second beside it.
    Also ensures the pin will be snug as you may not want to do too much peening. I'm shure you already know this, just putting it out there for future or beginning restorers.
    Thanks Will.
    When I took the sword apart there was no hole for the rivet. On further investigation I could see that the tang had been repaired/replaced about a inch from the blade shoulders.
    Ian
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  5. #80
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    Oct 2007
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    Kingston area, Ontario Canada
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    Broke

    Most likely was weakened by the hole, maybe when someone tried to replace the grip previously. Is the tang long enough to be peened over the pommel?
    I have sucessfully heated and hammered a tang to stretch it to length, no welding required, only takes a minute.

  6. #81
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    Jan 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will Mathieson View Post
    Most likely was weakened by the hole, maybe when someone tried to replace the grip previously. Is the tang long enough to be peened over the pommel?
    I have sucessfully heated and hammered a tang to stretch it to length, no welding required, only takes a minute.
    The tang is just the correct length.
    I have fitted the leather buffer between the blade and the guard not just over the blade. It makes the final fitting much more solid.
    Ian

  7. #82
    Ian,
    Your new grip looks fantastic! I am glad you bought the sword as you certainly did it justice. Well done, and best of luck finding a scabbard for it.

    Jonathan

  8. #83
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    Mar 2008
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    Montreal , Canada
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    Ian,

    Well done....congratulations.

    Dan

  9. #84
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    Jan 2007
    Location
    East Sussex, England
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    Thanks guys. I might get around to writing detailed instructions with photos, during my next project.
    This grip took me two days to make. Great care is required especially when tailoring to grip to fit the backpiece, removing a small amount of wood at a time. I don't have any suitable electric tools or facilities and so all the work was done using a saw, a small plane and various files and rasps.

    Ian

  10. #85
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Knight View Post
    I don't have any suitable electric tools or facilities and so all the work was done using a saw, a small plane and various files and rasps.

    Ian
    Nice work,Ian.Projects like this are often as easily done without any electrical gagets,apart from a drill that is.Some times we're slaves to the 3 pin plug.More satisfying as well.Was your procedure the same as for the previous one ?
    Niall Dignan

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by niall dignan View Post
    Nice work,Ian.Projects like this are often as easily done without any electrical gagets,apart from a drill that is.Some times we're slaves to the 3 pin plug.More satisfying as well.Was your procedure the same as for the previous one ?
    Thanks Niall,
    Yes, the procedure was the same apart from the fact that I cut most fingers on my left hand this time.
    I bought a dremel craft drill thinking that it would come in useful, but it didn't. You are correct, most of the procedures involved in making the grip don't lend themselves to the use of electric tools although I think a small sander would be handy.

    Ian

  12. #87
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    Jan 2009
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    Metro D.C.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will Mathieson View Post
    I have found what works for me when aligning existing holes to drill.
    Drill about half way from each side, should meet well enough to run the pin through. This prevents enlarging the hole or creating a second beside it.
    Also ensures the pin will be snug as you may not want to do too much peening. I'm shure you already know this, just putting it out there for future or beginning restorers.
    Nice thread... one tip about driling perfectly alinging holes... if you have to drill something at an interesting angle but still need it to line up... and you have a drill press with a vise (yes I did read that you have very few tools... even a small drill press is worth its weight in gold)... take a piece of wood and pound a nail half way into it that is the same size as the hole you are drilling cut off the head and smooth it with a file... dril half way from one side... align nail in the piece of wood in your vise with the drill bit... insert the nail into the hole on the one side of your item and drill from the other side until the drill bit makes contact with the nail... Got that one out of "Recreating the American Long Rifle" that book has a lot of great wood and metalworking tips in it.
    Last edited by Christopher Treichel; 01-18-2010 at 09:47 AM.
    "Please look in the encyclopedia and make a brief memorandum for me concerning the life of Correggio."
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  13. #88
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    Mar 2002
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    I think this would be a good "sticky" post for this forum, the do-it-yourself forum and even better, an article. I've referred to it more than once and have seen others do so.

    How about it Ian?

  14. #89
    I had been thinking the same thing, Great minds...etc.
    Niall Dignan

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by WBranner View Post
    I think this would be a good "sticky" post for this forum, the do-it-yourself forum and even better, an article. I've referred to it more than once and have seen others do so.

    How about it Ian?
    If you think it would be of interest.
    The next time that I make a grip I will take photos of every step with an explanation.

    Ian

  16. #91
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    Jan 2007
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    I must add that the three grips which I have made didn't replace the original grips. Two of the sabres had no grips at all, the third had a replacement, ill fitting smooth hardwood grip.
    I would under no circumstances remove and replace the original grip, even if damaged.

    Ian

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    47
    Hi Gentlemen,
    This are very interesting Views and Advice Repairing the Handle
    Very Appreciatet!
    But a big Challenge to do..Perhaps I just use "Rapid Steel Putty"
    to form & make a Grip around the Tang.It's not very "Authentic"
    but for an "Relic"Sabre ..well ..Many Thanks J.Fritz

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