Conversation Between Will Mathieson and Jim Cook

5 Visitor Messages

  1. Hello Jim, this is the only skin I have found. If you use the sides with the smaller denticles it will look ok.
    Soak it in water, cut it so you have good amount of excess for width and length as once you bind the grip the skin shortens when it forms in the grooves.
    I usually give it an extra 1 1/2" in width and length. Once dry and hard you can cut it with a dremel tool or grind the excess off.
    No need to remove it as it forms snugly. If there is a loose spot just use some wood glue but don't remove the skin from the grip.
    Once done there should be no skin on the top of the grip as it wont allow the backstrap to fit properly.
    The skin can rip easily when wet, if it does it can usually be pushed back together with little difference in the look.
    I dye the skin with black shoe dye.

  2. Will I found some old post on the forum that answered the shark verses ray question. Did anyone have any luck with the dogfish skin?
  3. Will thank you so very much
    I am a little confused though its ray not shark? Also as I proceed may I burden you with some additional questions on the process?
  4. Hello Jim, I have found the skin on ebay from a couple sellers. You need the white skins that are dried but not tanned. The black tanned ones are just like leather and will not form to the grip.
    A small skin that will do at least 3 swords is around $30.
  5. Hello Will
    I have been following your and example working small areas slowly roving the rust from the blade of my badly treated WW 1 1897 pattern. It is working very well. The grip is in bad shape also wire broken partly missing fish skin tatterd. But the wood is solid.
    I have disabled the grip removed the gard grip ect. I intend to recover the grip and replace the wire. Can you recomend anyplace to get the shark skin?
    Thank you
Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 5 of 5