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Thread: Sword stuck in leather scabbard

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Nipmuc USA
    Posts
    12,115
    Scary

    http://nautarch.tamu.edu/CRL/conserv...nual/File7.htm

    Yummy

    Bavon Leather Dressing
    1 liter of stabilized 1:1:1 trichloroethane
    1 gram Dowicide 1
    50 grams anhydrous lanolin
    20 grams Bavon ASAK-ABP

    Cheers

    Hotspur; not to go too far with success stories but here is mine that was crumbly dry going to red dry rot. Pecards antique and their colored dressing

    Centered here



    As sold to me


  2. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    67
    Very nice results. I'm going to have to get some - Amazon.com is the only place I can find it here in Canada.

    At the moment the sword is still stuck in the scabbard, however, I have been rubbing it down with pure neatsfoot oil and inserting spacers to stretch the leather. Top half of scabbard now wiggles, just the bottom to go ... Hopefully not long now.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    1,455
    And the final result was...?

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    1,455
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Fairbanks View Post
    I guess you may be right Mr. Wilkinson, never thought of it like that. I grew up where we scalded our on hogs, made grits and our own soap. None are best jobs but Dad never ask if we liked building fence or picking cotton, it was just what you did. I can see where all could be seen as distasteful. I will change my suggestion to soak it in neatsfoot oil and forget the other stuff. It will revive the leather and swell it a bit. I bought an eaglehead not to long ago and it is stuck in the scabbard. I have not had time to work on it but should be home in a week or so. I will put neatsfoot oil on it Honey and take photos for you and Mr. Wilkinson. Just hold on Honey and I will put my money where my mouth is. I will post as it goes. Then you can make up your mind on how to proceed with yours. Kids: Do not try this at home without adult supervision. It is a pretty nice eagle and scabbard so it should be fun.
    So have you put your money where your mouth is yet? I've got a stuck one here also. Was thinking of dousing the scabbard in Pecard's Antique Leather Dressing, but would like to see others' results first.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    North West US
    Posts
    1,236
    Dmitry, I have but have not had a chance to complete clean up on sword. The neats foot oil did free all the preserved spaces on blade. The only places it would not free was rusty spots. I then took Matts advice and cut stitching in those areas. The blade for the most part is beautiful. I have it soaking in oil now to protect bluing and stop any rust advance. Every time I go home I scrape a little more off in those spots. I tried to soak blade on flat surface but neats foot oil is thick and I was in and out and could not keep it coated properly. I have since built 2 and 4 inch pvc tubes that stand in wooden rack that have various oils and cleaners in them and one for neats foot oil. The 2 inch works great as it stops the hilt from going in. The pvc is easily heated and bent to accommodate the curve of the blade. I will be home next week and post photos of my little Osborne on this thread. I do have some beginning photos on tablet I will post now. Neats foot oil will not harm bluing but it will not eat rust you will have to wipe it off and us a hydrate type to clean up rust. I am thrilled with what I have so far and with Matt's advice. After removing blade leather will be soaked with neats foot I raked off with a piece of cardboard what I could the hung it to drip. I then wrapped it in paper towels to get what was left. Next I give a rub down with Petards and waited a day or so then shoe polish. Photos to come. Eric
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    The unlimited power of the sword is not in the hands of either the federal or state governments, but, where I trust in God it will ever remain, in the hands of the people." --- Tench Coxe

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    1,455
    Eric, why are you soaking the blade in neatsfoot oil?
    There are products specifically fabricated for protection of metal surfaces from rust. BreakFree CLP the one I use.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    North West US
    Posts
    1,236
    I guess I should be more specific
    1. Soak sword stuck in scabbard in neats foot oil to free from leather.
    2. Cut stiching in spots rust prohibited removal
    3. Remove blade and clean off excess neats foot oil
    4. Drip and scrape excess neats foot from scabbard
    5. Soak sword blade in hydrate oil ie: WD40, Remington gun oil, Mystery oil to soften rust spots
    6. Wrap scabbard in paper towels to pull out overdose of neats foot oil
    7. Pull out sword every once in a while and scrape rusty spots be careful not to scar unaffected areas.
    8. Rub scabbard and buff with Petards or good saddle soap then polish with paste type shoe polish.
    9. No hydrate oil or solvent of any type should ever touch leather
    10. Neats foot will not harm nor help sword blade
    I am not familiar with Breakfree clp but if it is for rust it should never touch leather. Any hydrate type product will work on rust to one degree or an other. Gasoline and diesel will cut rust but you should put your cigarette out. Never use rust removing products on blued blades. Bluing is a type of rust and will be removed. Metal Rescue is a great product but would be deadly for bluing. My Osborne has been soaking in WD 40 for some tim while I pick a rusty spots. It has not hurt bluing but is slowly cutting through rust. Its gona take a while. Eric
    The unlimited power of the sword is not in the hands of either the federal or state governments, but, where I trust in God it will ever remain, in the hands of the people." --- Tench Coxe

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    North West US
    Posts
    1,236

    Osborn project

    While not a complete success it does retain most of detail. I have decided to stop at this point as I do not wish to lose any detail in bluing or etching. I will have to keep an eye on it to make sure active rust is neutralized, but overall I am thrilled with what I have. The spadroon stuck in scabbard for many years could have been far worse. For someone digging and buying out of the bottom end this much blue and gold is a win and it is an Osborn after all. Eric
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    The unlimited power of the sword is not in the hands of either the federal or state governments, but, where I trust in God it will ever remain, in the hands of the people." --- Tench Coxe

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    67
    I came across this old thread I started and realized I neglected posting the eventual results.

    In the end, patience was the key. I narrowed down where exactly (as best as I could guess), where the sword was stuck in the scabbard. It turned out to be a small patch of rust stuck to the leather right under the top of the chape.

    First, I made a small incision where it was stitched right above the chape and applied the neatsfoot oil right to the area in hopes of loosening up the adhered leather. After sitting for awhile, I tried poking around through the incision with a baking tester (a small metal needle like item) in the end I was too aggressive and the needle bent, tearing the incision a little larger.

    Disgusted with myself, I applied more neats foot oil and wrapped a cloth around the area (the cloth already somewhat saturated with neatsfoot oil from wiping away the excess) and left it alone. Back and forth I would go to test it.

    The following summer it was particularly hot and humid. Once more for the 30th time probably, I braced the chape between my feet and slowly tried to pull upwards. This time something happened. The chape came off. At first alarmed, then I realized I could now wiggle the scabbard leather off and voila.

    The sword is now free. And so is the chape and the locket (though the locket was already detached when I purchased the sword, only held in place by the sword stuck in the scabbard). A small patch of rust near the tip was the culprit - I still have to finish cleaning the rust off, and I fear the brass guard may be slightly bent from myself and so many others pulling at it, but here is a picture of it.

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    You will see the culprit area right near the tip. Story concluded

    Cheers,

    Matt

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Sidmouth, in the South-West of the UK
    Posts
    2,311
    Thanks for the update, Matt - quite often in this kind of thread the original poster goes quiet and we never get to hear the end of the story! Regarding the blade, I've used car chrome cleaner to get rust off with good results - Autosol is the brand I've found in the UK. It also gives a good polish to the non-rusted parts of the blade.

    John
    "If I can't be a good example to others, at least let me be a horrible warning".

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    67
    That’s excellent! Thanks John. I’ll pick some up and give it a try.

    Matt

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